What do the new EU textile rules require by 2030?
The European Union has set out a clear ambition in its Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. By 2030, textile products placed on the EU market should be durable, repairable and recyclable, made largely from recycled fibres, free from hazardous substances, and produced with respect for people and the environment. That single sentence rules out a great deal of how clothing is made today.
Three pieces of law turn that ambition into dates you can plan around.
The first is the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, which allows Brussels to set minimum design standards for clothing instead of leaving each brand to decide for itself. Running alongside it is the Digital Product Passport, a record attached to the garment covering what went into it and what should happen to it once its wearing life is over.
The second is the revised Waste Framework Directive, in force since October 2025. Governments across the EU have until roughly the middle of 2027 to put it onto their own statute books, and until April 2028 to have producer responsibility schemes up and running for clothes and footwear. What that means in practice is a charge on each garment a producer sells, with the size of the charge set by how long the garment lasts and how easily it can be recycled. Durable products will cost their makers less than throwaway ones.
The third is already live. Since 19 July this year, large companies have been barred from destroying unsold clothing, and medium-sized firms join them in 2030. Any business that has quietly treated surplus stock as a write-off now has to find somewhere for it to go.
What the market is telling us
McKinsey and The Business of Fashion titled their 2026 State of Fashion report When the Rules Change, which rather makes the point. Their findings are sobering: only low single-digit growth expected this year, 46% of executives expecting conditions to worsen, and tariffs named as the industry's number one hurdle.
But look a little closer and the picture is more interesting. Shoppers have become determined value-seekers. Resale is forecast to grow two to three times faster than the first-hand market through to 2027, without eating into new sales. Keeping hold of existing customers now worries executives more than winning new ones.
Put simply, people want things that last and hold their value. Longevity has become a selling point in its own right.
Meanwhile the wider textile market was valued at around $2.1 trillion in 2025 and is forecast to roughly double by 2035, growing at about 7.2% a year. Smart textiles, the responsive and bio-based materials at the technical end of the market, are expanding far faster still, at close to 29% annually. There is plenty of room for new entrants.